Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

before some one says something a friend fix my spelling

I know it's not winter yet, but it gets cool up here in Michigan.
I'm building a new motor so I can take the motor off the Sprejunk (scooter name)
\and have it as a back up motor...there will be some things I'll have to swap over,
such as the cooling tin, starter, tire and my expipe that I have gutted and put a bigger
tip in it ~ don't have a good pipe.

Here's my winter project. It's a se50 (87 elite) with a 10/1 finely drive which stays in the
block and won't be changed..... most parts are used but not used up lol The first thing
I'm doing is to break the block and open the ports in the case for better flow...to grind on
aluminum you need to put oil on the case so the the dermal grind bit does not fill up with
aluminum and overheat and fail. Don't be cheap with the motor oil~ just a few drops every
so often can make a world of difference. This is my first grinding and will do a little more when
I get the used manifold and carb ....I'm using my little finger as a measuring tool.

Here's photo of before and after...





Now I'm doing the gasket, it all makes a difference.







When looking at the case with a straight edge the top path curves in so that's what I ground
out to get a better flow of gas mix in the jug.

PLEASE tell me you havent finished with them intake windows and your gonna clean them up some more .

parts dont need to be clean till you put it together,.....lol
swimmingfree

ps
cant make them bigger too thin of metal left....

i mean your porting .Look at you pic of the stock ports and look at your port job.You need to get in there with a file and straiten them edges up .bigger is not always better .

It will take a while but definitely use a hand file, once it gets flat you can take an Emory board and smooth it out more at the top and sides. If not those grooves will mess up the smooth flow of air. It takes a long time to port, sometimes I've spent weeks porting blocks and cylinders. Jagged and rough edges are bad. If you can run your finger nail or a pencil tip along it and it snags it needs to be sanded more.

Also angle the carb side of the intake windows so its not squared when air hits it. Most of this can be done with a careful hand and a file. If you don't feel comfortable removing more dont do it but it should be done while apart.

how is this better most of the lump and bump was oil and grinding gunk ...
swimmingfree

do you have some small files if so slowly work at it till its smoother

also when running bigger intake ports you need to run smaller jets as well

no i dont but was going to Harbor Freight down the road about 4 miles from me ....
swimmingfree

hay LoveMyHonda you said Emory board on one of your post do you mean finger file????
what do you guy think about this ????

swimmingfree

The other metal part is the one you want to remove or cut off evenly. It will eventually rub the reeds against the intake tho and split them.
A fingernail file or emery board I want to say is the same thing, just not the kind with metal. It needs to be flexible.

the thing is a spring that help hole the read down its not the stopper the other steel thing is the stopper..
swimmingfree

Your intake windows need to be smoothed out some.

I use a little flap wheel like this when opening up these windows.



Take your time and try to get every thing as smooth as this.

were did you get the little flap wheel at ??? do thay fit a dremal??
swimmingfree