Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Time to start putting her back together and was hoping for some advice on the best way to reinstall the bearings on the final reduction/transmission and also to reinstall the crank. What's everyone's favorite methods?

if you dont have a crank install tool. use a 3/4 sockets and washers. thats what I use to put all my cranks in. I dont have a crank install tool. if you have to press the gear on the axle,there is no way around it but to use a press.

The crank is all in one piece, so that won't be an issue. I'm not following you on the 3/4 socket and washers. Could you elaborate for me? I appreciate any info.

your trying to put the crank into the bearings right?the only way to do that is to pull the crank shaft into the bearing.the socket goes over the shaft and stops on the case. use washers to fill the gap to the top of the threads so you can use the nut to tighten. add washers as the crank pulls into the bearing.the 3/4 drive sockets is big enough for the crank shaft to fit through

Thanks, I am picking up what you're throwing down now. That makes perfect sense. I will give it a shot. I am guessing that using some motor oil and possibly freezing the bearings will help me install the bearings into the engine casing first?

bakaracer wrote:your trying to put the crank into the bearings right?the only way to do that is to pull the crank shaft into the bearing.the socket goes over the shaft and stops on the case. use washers to fill the gap to the top of the threads so you can use the nut to tighten. add washers as the crank pulls into the bearing.the 3/4 drive sockets is big enough for the crank shaft to fit through

yup! and put oil or grease on the shaft so its easier to pull the shaft into the bearing.if you dont have washers that have a big enough inside diameter,use a step drill bit to open it up to the size you need.if you dont have 3/4in drive sockets, a piece of pipe will work to. just make sure its big enough so that on the belt side,the thick part of the shaft will fit inside the pipe.same as for the washers.

I don't have any but I'm sure I can pick one up at the flea market this weekend for cheap.

One last question on the bearings, do I just need to find sockets big enough to fit the outer race and hammer, or would it be better to use a bearing/gear puller and a washers big enough to fit the outside race and pull? I'm afraid of damaging the bearing if I hammer and the engine case if I use the puller.

yeah you can hammer it in. just make sure you go slow and even.do the crisscross pattern when tapping in the bearing. support the backside of the section your tapping the bearing in. i've seen guys knock that section out before so use a piece of wood to support it.

Thanks baka, I really appreciate the advice. I can't wait for this weekend to get here. Hopefully some of you guys will be around this weekend as I'm sure I'll run into something strange with my luck.

Better to put the bearing in the freeze for several hours then use a heat gun (or a hair dryer) to heat the case in the bearing area and the bearing should drop in. Pounding on bearings is never a good idea.

Bear45-70 wrote:Better to put the bearing in the freeze for several hours then use a heat gun (or a hair dryer) to heat the case in the bearing area and the bearing should drop in. Pounding on bearings is never a good idea.

The heat will not effect the oil seals?

dyehardfan wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote:Better to put the bearing in the freeze for several hours then use a heat gun (or a hair dryer) to heat the case in the bearing area and the bearing should drop in. Pounding on bearings is never a good idea.

The heat will not effect the oil seals?

Oil seal goes in from the outside after the bearing is install. But a heat gun or better yet a hair dryer will not get hot enough to hurt the seals.

put the seals on last after the crank and case is together.

Thanks Bear. I couldn't tell from the scan of the service manual and unfortunately took less pictures than I should have when tearing her down. Trying to heed your advice and be patient during the rebuild so I can avoid as many mistakes as possible.

Bear45-70 wrote:

dyehardfan wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote:Better to put the bearing in the freeze for several hours then use a heat gun (or a hair dryer) to heat the case in the bearing area and the bearing should drop in. Pounding on bearings is never a good idea.

The heat will not effect the oil seals?

Oil seal goes in from the outside after the bearing is install. But a heat gun or better yet a hair dryer will not get hot enough to hurt the seals.

bakaracer wrote:i've seen guys knock that section out before so use a piece of wood to support it.

I'm one of them guys, it sucks!!