Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

This is the build thread for my Aero 50. Paid 100 bones for it from a guy of CL. Didnt have a ignition, just a switch were the key went, so I went to Napa and got a universal ignition (4 post) and took the two wires from the switch and then the two from the starter button; connected them on the switch and now I have a working ignition. I've also replaced the flasher relay, air filter (O.E.M) then switched over to a UNI pod filter, repaired most of the body panels, replaced the plug, final drive oil, coil and some other odds and ends. Painted it flat black using 99 cent Wal-Mart cans with a Krylon flat clear on them.

Here are some before pics:



Fixed some more of the panels and made it look decent.
body work:


Ended up buying the front faring from a forum member.

During paint:







After Paint:







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Then, I did some what I think is ÔÇ£custom touchesÔÇØ to it.

The lights are from some old Sunpro gauges I had laying around the shop.
-while mounting them











The Volt-Meter is from Harbor Freight (on sale for $6.00).



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I got it running and cruised around the neighborhood for a bit and realized that the stock 50cc was a little slow for my fat *, so I decided to swap the engine. Not a GY6, not a Dio (AF16E), but a NH80 (Aero 80) engine.

I started by pulling the stock engine out:




Test-fitted the new engine:




then, trimmed the frame up to get it to fit good:
-this became my new best friend



got it how I want it:

how it will mount (welded)


Took the frame to the carwash to clean it up.
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Here is a pic of the piece I made to go were the stock gauge cluster is. Going to use a bike computer as my gauge. Then maybe add a tach.

the speedometer I'm going to use.


Here are the block-off plates I made for when the carb or the intake is off, nothing will get in, also great for storage or shipping.
intake:

carb:

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Painted the frame.
This is the product I used.

Rubberized Undercoating
$3.97 at Wal-mart.

frame painted:


Had to rebuild the switch panel, while I was drilling the other hole for the switch, got to close to the other and screwed it up.
This one is a little bigger and has the 3 switches side-by-side.

Here are the lights mounted to the frame via JB weld.

Going to try to get the wiring done today (2-13-10).

workdog wrote: Here are the lights mounted to the frame via JB weld.

Going to try to get the wiring done today (2-13-10).

i kinda like this idea, are they wired to the turn signals, or just an underglow?
i like your style, flat/satin black just looks good on an aero, but i may be baised...

Just wired for under glow.

Nice lookin' Aero!

turtle13 wrote:

workdog wrote: Here are the lights mounted to the frame via JB weld.

Going to try to get the wiring done today (2-13-10).

i kinda like this idea, are they wired to the turn signals, or just an underglow?
i like your style, flat/satin black just looks good on an aero, but i may be baised...

Nice job bud,

I dig the lights!

Very cool!!

Thanks buddy!

Didnt do too much today. drilled another hole in the switch panel for the 12v. plug. Then sprayed it with the undercoating material I used on the frame. Ran all the wires for the switches, so when its all done, it will be ready to be hooked up.
The frame may be welded up tomorrow.
Right now I'm looking to see if I can find a piston kit that is cheap enough that I can get it now and a carb.
Will get pics tomorrow.

i have 2 questions.

1. what kind of lights are you using for the underglow?

2. where did you get these awesome rims? mine are all boring

They are trailer clearance lights. Got them at Wally World for like $2.46 for the 2 bigger ones and then I got a smaller one for inside the engine compartment (it was $1.96).

Those are stock Aero80 rims

also, im interested in how you have those lights wired. did you just put an spst toggle inline w/ battery main? or did you run it from another wire?

They will be hooked together to the main battery with a toggle switch and then there will be a "master" switch that will close or open the circuit to all of the accessories (the lights, glovebox lights, and the 12v. plug).

wont that drain power excessively running direct like that?

I dont think that it will with the switches to "close" the power draw. But it very well could

well, i was planning on putting an spst toggle just before the (-) terminal just to open the circuit whilst i wasnt riding because if i dont ride long enough, it seems like my battery doesnt recharge itself quite enough sometimes.

i'd try to find somewhere to connect them after the battery on the return trip(assuming (+) is start).
let me know how it turns out..i may have to copy you(but w/ white lights instead of red)

If you are worried about power draw fightingplankton you may want to use LED lights. If you don't have anything else aftermarket hooked up ,the alternator should be able to handle those two lights just fine.

I have a radio with 3-1/2 inch speakers and a LED light strip with switch on my Aero 50 with no issues.

I installed a digital voltmeter to tell me when I need a charge.

Nice work dogg