Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Hi Elite riders
I have an 89 Elite E 50 cc scooter. I have ridden it for about a year and finally decided to build it up. I bought a built up 86cc Dio drive train and am putting it together. The engine has a Rumia ministroker kit and a Taiwan big bore cylinder. CT racing intake, OKO 28mm, Poloni kevlar belt with 3000 rpm clutch springs, 5 gram weithgs and a 2000 rpm contra spring. A keli variator. I believe that it is an 18E series engine.

I had it held in place but realized that the rear wheel had a 95-96 mm drum brake and my e50 had wheel a wheel with a 80 mm drum. My next step is to get a new wheel. Any hints on where I can get reasonably priced stock rear wheel so that I can clamp the wheels inline and get on with the mounts. Honda nomenclature is almost overwhelming.

I have been working on an expansion chamber and started with a mx honda 85cc unit. I am adding about 40 cm of intake tubing to lower the resonant frequency to about 7000rpm. I really love the homebuilt aspect of this sort of project. I know I could buy a chamber for less than 200 dollars but what is the fun in that.

This is strictly a fun project for me. I am 57 years old and in a past life I have roadraced two stroke motorcycles. I also still road ride my last one 25 years after the fact. Most of my miles are put on a four stroker however.

I will post pictures and an article about this stock bikes transformation

cool, sounds fun

let us know how the custom chamber turns out

Elite S wheel will fit and also metropolitan and ruckus wheels might work which pop up on ebay now and then

My project moved a little last weekend. I started fabricating my motor mount. I used the stock motor mount and welded on some extensions from 3/4" square stock and then welded a pipe to go between them. It moved the engine mount back about 2" and down about an inch. It is just tacked together at the moment.

Greetings:

Nice work on the mount!
Wish I could weld... The apartment complex frowns on me setting things on fire, including myself.

Aero, Elite, and even Metropolitan wheels all fit. They pop up on eBay frequently. That's where I found mine. Met rims are of a tubeless design. Search scooter wheel and you should see some.

I should add that I have the wheel from another bike via fleabay. Notice that it is white rather than silver. Has a pretty good tire on it. My old bike had 80mm brake drums, my new drive train needed a 95 mm brake hub.

One of things lost in the modification were the centerstand tabs. If I would have looked closer I could have kept them. I figure that I will add a kick stand.

The carburetor might interfere with the stock shock mount. Something different may be needed for rear suspension.

I should get rid of my stock engine and rear wheel. It was running normally before I took it off the bike. Top speed was 35 with my wife on it.

Worked on the Evil Elite today. Got the adapter kit installed and the drive train bolted up. The wheelbase is a 2.5-3" longer than stock and it sits lower than stock. I was able to keep the same top shock mount although the shock lays down a bit more. My custom head pipe is pretty smooth inside and curls enough to fit close to the engine in the lowered position.

Got the wiring harness modified to allow the late model engine in the early frame. Motor started on my straight pipe right off but was not jetted close enough to run without the choke.

Here it is as of tonight:


My expansion chamber has to be fit onto the header before jetting begins.

Man that thing looks killer! Great progress on your build...
It looks like the rear may rub on the fuel tank because of the stock mounting points you used on your shock. Shouldn't be too much of a problem if you weigh 88 pounds
If keeping the stock shock locaction is a must, I've seen a shock extender around for Honda Ruckus. It should give you enough room as I think it gives you a little over an inch, but with that angle may only work out being a few MM.

brad3
Yeah the tank and the back bracket may rub. I have no desire to add work and was quite pleased when engine fell into alignment and I was able to get the wiring hooked up and it started. If I need to move the shock location, it won't be a problem to make a clevis end and weld it into the frame somewhere rearward of stock. If the rub is just a little bit I may shim the tank up and peen it up in the middle. Lower in the back is better, increases trail of the front wheel, this bike should run well over the stock max speed and may need the stability.

She fit the stock left side panel and it fit perfectly except for the rear wheel hanging out back.

My wife has plans to add a side hack to it but one step at a time.

Thanks for the comments.

bradthreee wrote:Man that thing looks killer! Great progress on your build...
It looks like the rear may rub on the fuel tank because of the stock mounting points you used on your shock. Shouldn't be too much of a problem if you weigh 88 pounds
If keeping the stock shock locaction is a must, I've seen a shock extender around for Honda Ruckus. It should give you enough room as I think it gives you a little over an inch, but with that angle may only work out being a few MM.

Today was the day that I welded up the expansion chamber. I used a Honda CR85 chamber $20. I figured that the scooter would not want to rev like the water cooled race bike. So I made it longer I was shooting for 8000 rpm and just grafted it on. Had to cut it in various places turn it 180degrees a couple of times and reweld it. I think it just may clear the stock fairing and then have the stinger out the back. Still needs jetting and lots of tlc. You folks can be the first to see my bike. We both test rode the machine and the tire didn't seem to rub anything. It starts easily and really howls. Needs a silencer.


and

That pipe is badass!

I'd love to do something like that, one day I'll have a welder

That pipe is waayy over the top.Can't wait to here how it performs.Good luck with the cool build.Carp

elitedio wrote:If I need to move the shock location, it won't be a problem to make a clevis end and weld it into the frame somewhere rearward of stock. If the rub is just a little bit I may shim the tank up and peen it up in the middle. Lower in the back is better, increases trail of the front wheel, this bike should run well over the stock max speed and may need the stability.

daywot sells an adjustable shock that might be a consideration to rise over "rub" points. However you may want the geometric advantage of moving it rearward.

Went out to look at a stock pipe to get a better idea what you did to unwind it. That back cut is something!

P.S. - noticed a detail from one of your earlier pics - you put in a cycle quick release at the motor mount.

Mouse
I didn't have a bolt when I was mocking it up so slipped the quick release in. I am using hardened 3/8' bolts on both shafts. A 5" for the front hole and a 6" for the motor to adaptor. The stock front bolt could be used but somehow it had disappeared.

As far as unwinding goes... I went this route in part because I was concerned at how much room I had between the frame and motor with aftermarket pipes. I wanted one that would be more bent hugging the motor a bit closer. I made my own head pipe from tubing. I cut a bunch of pie shaped pieces and welded them together to get the bends how I wanted it. As far as the expansion chamber shaping; I cut off the very end maybe an inch of a cr85 header and discarded it. Went back 90 degrees and cut it square. Turned that section 180 deg and rewelded it. I went back to the fat section where the pipe was bending 90 degrees and made a cut at 45 deg and rotated that section 180 degrees. It is way easier to do than it sounds. I am sure that many pipes could be used if they have the same dimensions roughly. This one was dent free and cheap.

The big question is; are my reverse engineering calculations close enough. I used 3 different formulas and kind of took an average. I have stopped my tuning process for now as I am getting a silencer to go on the pipe and figured no sense in changing the jetting an extra time.

We are working on the body work today. It looks like all that it is going to take are some notches near the front of the rear fairing to clear things (like the fan). The back of the pipe is clearing nicely. The inner fender is not going back on.

That's a sweet exhaust.
Just a paint job on it, and I think it'd be more bad *!