Should I be afraid to open my scooter up?

[johnny248]

Took the engine out to tear down the crank. Before I got that far, I pressurized it with some soapy water , and sure enough....bubbles between the cylinder and case right where the case halves join. I was suspicious about that area because you can clearly feel a step between the two case halves. I'm sure Honda machines the deck on the case halves before the case is assembled, and any tolerance is absorbed by the thicker OEM paper base gasket. Before when I looked at the Polini gasket after it was installed I could see the witness marks in the gasket where to case joins together. I had a bad feeling about that metal gasket not being able to compensate and I guess I was right. If I was a manufacturer, it only makes sense to me to join the halves and then machine the deck, but I guess that is more time consuming and not as cost effective as letting their machines do their job separately on each half knowing any differences would be taken care of by this gasket. So, after we get the boost port milled, we can flat file the deck with the case together to flatten that area out. After that, I think all should be good with the base gasket sealing.

Screen shots



I swear it seems like the engine has been apart more that together lol

[1man8scoots]

Please don't do it yourself, bring it to a machine shop. Glad you found the problem!

[johnny248]

Don't do what myself?

[johnny248]

Yes, there were dowl pins. I'm not sure what was going on, but what CG and I bolted it together after milling the boost port, there was definitely a slight variance between the two half's. He simply used a flat steel block and sand paper abd lightly hit it to flaten it a little bit. We should know soon how it works . FedEx is supposed to deliver the parts from Honda I am waiting on. Then I will finish putting it together.

[johnny248]

and OMG, after you said that, I freaked out a little bit about the dowl pins. I couldn't remember if I put them back in when I installed the new crank, but thank god they have to ve in there since I had the case bolts and down pins in the same bag and they are no longer in there, so they have to ve back in the case...at least I hope :/

[johnny248]

I put her together yesterday and went for a little ride. The low end and mid range pull MUCH harder than it was before, and it is running so much better. Not sure how much is the fixing of the leak, how much is the new crank, but it sure feels like a new machine.

I need to do some jetting work on it and see where I am at.
I can say though as soon as I got on the road and hit that strong mid range on the pipe, it just put a big smile on my face. Happy she is going!

[johnny248]

You were right lol crazy thing is it was leaking from a place I never expected it to, but it seems like its all good now after leveling the deck. I have the stock clutch at this moment with different springs. They are black koso, can't remember if they aren't 1k,1.5,or 2 along with the yellow contra and this thing actually gets out of the hole now. Not as good as the 3g polini on CG's ride, but with that air leak it was a complete dog. The biggest thing I noticed is that mid range. With the engine sealed, the Coraa, Malossi crank and PG Short, it gets in at pipe quick and hard. Even with the 8.4 gears the mid range pull is awesome! The one quick ride I went on hit 62 which is OK I guess, but I think I can do better with some tuning. It did 65 once with the air leak. I have to address's it exhaust though. Put the new packing in and it is leaking. Not sure how much it is affecting the performance, but I have a pretty strong stream of exhaust blowing through.

Next thing is that's Clutch...G9, I know you love the Polini 3g and a lot of other people do also, but that S6 keeps grabbing my attention... Along with the S6 bell .. I don't know which one is actually better, but the S6 sure is sexy looking

Do you need the R/T Cnc bell in order to adjust the clutch without removal? Or does the wing cooler bell work also?