Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Wheelman-111 wrote:Playing with my PWK tonight I noticed how tightly it Pops into the rubber CT spigot. Not so the Mikuni' which now seems quite loose by comparison. With both carbs off. Noticed the reason. The Mik spigot is only 32mm to the Keihin's 35.

Thanks for the heads-up. I bought an intake adapter specifically sized for the TM24, and it is an extremely snug fit. I had to really force it in there. Sorry you encountered a few problems, but it sounds like you are totally on it now.

sanjuro wrote:I love this forum, always some knowledgeable and respected guys giving advice.

Jay, is using a Malossi chamber pipe a waste of time on the cast iron kit I'm running?

No it's not if it's fairly ported .. I love the power band of the Malossi chamber so it's staying on, I would almost compare it too my SEF Black but the black still has a little more jump .. both Malossi and Arrow pipes were intended for 66cc but I've known people using it for 90-104cc ...

I opened up the flange connecting to the bore, it was quite small, I do that to all my pipes unless it's already big enough. I also try to get rid of any edges where the flow would have a chance to bounce off..

Greetings:

Would you be so kind as to identify a source for the Mikuni sleeve adaptor that tightens up the spigot fit?


A pipe designed for 66 must really perk up the low end of a bigger bore. How's it on top end?

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

Would you be so kind as to identify a source for the Mikuni sleeve adaptor that tightens up the spigot fit?


A pipe designed for 66 must really perk up the low end of a bigger bore. How's it on top end?

you could try this not sure if it will fit on dio manis.. I'd try and contact them and get them to measure the mounting holes
http://www.bowlsla.com/store/pc/viewPrd ... oduct=7194

or you could cut some slices into the spigot itself with a razor North East South West pattern, and see if that will help, may require to cut a little more to open up the gaps ..

Greetings:

Thanks for that link, but I have the CT manifold. The carb really just needs a sleeve around the spigot. I'm thinking about a tight strip of aluminum tape wrapped around a half-dozen times temporarily. Once gripped by the rubber under the clamp the adhesive degradation won't matter.

Wheelman, I have the adapter that Jay posted up. It won't do you any good since you're running the CT manifold, and I have the stage 6.

Yeah the stage6 has a flange mount on the mani. you can also use a radiator hose as a spigot.you just have to go to the auto parts store and find a straight hose and take the carb with you for fitment.

Ok, I tried the 35 slow jet and 160 main jet, and it ran beautifully. The motor feels real torquey. I was so tempted to jump on it, but restrained myself.

I have the following pilot jets coming in:

32.5
37.5
40
45

I still get a ton of fuel coming out of the carb fuel overflow tube. How radical can I go on adjusting the float level? The float tab is already bent at 15 degrees.

Also, how many turns out do I adjust the idle screw as a good baseline? The first time I rode it, and stopped after 15 minutes of riding it died on me. Kickstarted it again, and rode it around for 5 minutes. Put it on the center stand and adjusted the idle screw, and it didn't die on me. I just want to find a good baseline and compare it to where I have it set to now. Turning it clockwise increases idle speed?

Greetings:

The screw's an air inlet (Bleed). Turning in (CW) richens - sometimes it'll stall. Turning out (CCW) leans it. On my TM24 it was about 1.5 turns out. Any closer to closed and the idle would fall quickly. I could turn it out until the screw fell off in my hand without apparent effect on idle speed. Swapping Pilot jets means you must start the adjustment process over.

sanjuro wrote:Ok, I tried the 35 slow jet and 160 main jet, and it ran beautifully. The motor feels real torquey. I was so tempted to jump on it, but restrained myself.

I have the following pilot jets coming in:

32.5
37.5
40
45

I still get a ton of fuel coming out of the carb fuel overflow tube. How radical can I go on adjusting the float level? The float tab is already bent at 15 degrees.

Also, how many turns out do I adjust the idle screw as a good baseline? The first time I rode it, and stopped after 15 minutes of riding it died on me. Kickstarted it again, and rode it around for 5 minutes. Put it on the center stand and adjusted the idle screw, and it didn't die on me. I just want to find a good baseline and compare it to where I have it set to now. Turning it clockwise increases idle speed?

get an rpm gauge and set the idle around 1700-1800. is the carb new? make sure the float needle is not worn.Does gas pour out of the carb when the bike is sitting on the stand or when riding?

Greetings:

Quoth Sanjuro:

I still get a ton of fuel coming out of the carb fuel overflow tube. How radical can I go on adjusting the float level? The float tab is already bent at 15 degrees.

I haven't had that issue with my Mik, but the PWK as delivered leaked more than Wheelman after his second pot of coffee.

To test:
1. Pull the carb again. (Sorry! )
2. Drain and for gosh's sake, use a clean new length of fuel line to the inlet.
3. Gently raise the float manually. See that the float needle makes contact with the seat. Now repeat, as you blow lightly into the fuel line. Your breath should be blocked completely before the float touches the carb body.
4. If you can't get the float needle to plug tightly despite correct adjustment, the needle and/or seat are bad.
5. If you can stop the flow of air, be sure to check that it opens up again as you drop the float just a hair. Sorry I don't know the actual specs for the float level/angle measurement for this carb, but if it does these two things it should be close enough.

Wheelman-111 wrote:The screw's an air inlet (Bleed). Turning in (CW) richens - sometimes it'll stall. Turning out (CCW) leans it. On my TM24 it was about 1.5 turns out. Any closer to closed and the idle would fall quickly. I could turn it out until the screw fell off in my hand without apparent effect on idle speed.

Oh, that's really good to know.

bakaracer wrote:get an rpm gauge and set the idle around 1700-1800. is the carb new? make sure the float needle is not worn.Does gas pour out of the carb when the bike is sitting on the stand or when riding?

The carb is brand spanking new, and I don't have an rpm gauge at the moment. Gas pours out of the carb in both instances.

Wheelman-111 wrote:2. Drain and for gosh's sake, use a clean new length of fuel line to the inlet.

All of the lines are brand new, but I'll put a new one on. I'll let you know what happens, and thanks for the step by step.

Greetings:

Don't wish to 'jack your thread, but since we have the same carb I'll share my recent experience.

On Bakaracer's advice I ordered and installed a 22.5 Pilot. Who knew this jet did anything other than help clean up the idle? It's a bit blubbery off idle, but welcome no soft seizes over 5 mile ride at all speeds tonight.

Temps stay @ 300-ish on steady 45 cruise, drop to 275 at WOT, but still flirt with 350 a couple times when I back off. I threw on a Mik stock 180 even though it's a bit smaller than the old jet I had drilled out to #55 = 1.29mm.

Maxed out the vario one time and speeds still climbing briskly past 55 when I ran out of road.

Do I need a bigger Main, up the needle, bigger Pilot, or shut up and ride? I have yet to sort out the K PWK 28...cables and a leak upon initial installation. Will that carb outperform the TM24?