84 Spree dies when you give it gas

[scooby26t]

also I cleaned out the passageway between the bystarter and the carb bowl. Looks like this will all have to wait till tomarrow when I get home from work. Thank heavens I only have a 2 tenths mile walk to work. But I will let you know how I make out.

[CaptDan]

it is the drain screw I was talking about.

So when the drain screw is loosened the engine runs better?

CaptDan>

[scooby26t]

yeah it runs alot better with the drain screw loosened and gas draining out of the tube. If I close the drain screw and try to give it gas it shuts off.

[CaptDan]

yeah it runs alot better with the drain screw loosened and gas draining out of the tube. If I close the drain screw and try to give it gas it shuts off.

Sounds to me like there's a blockage someplace in the fuel delivery. Possible culprits - in no particular order:

-Dirty fuel filter in petcock
-Petcock blocked or malfunctioning
-Crud in a fuel line, or fuel line kinked
-Blocked carb chamber and/or emulsion tubes* (yeah I know - 'clean the carb again. )
-Malfunctioning float and/or float needle

How much - if any - fuel runs out the carb when you open the drain screw?

CaptDan>

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

The Captain is correct with his last assertion:

Malfunctioning float and/or float needle

The float valve isn't stopping fuel flow when the level gets to the top of the bowl. Fuel bubbles up and into the venturi anywhere there's an opening. Some of it probably dribbles out the vents, but not enough. Idle speed vacuum doesn't draw enough along into the intake stream to kill the idling engine, but crack the throttle and the too-too rich mixture stuffs it dead.

Opening the drain lowers the fuel level balance point to where the carb can function "normally". Except for the part where the leaking fuel catches fire.

I recommend a Honda-approved NEW float needle and another Colgate hone-job on the needle bore.

[scooby26t]

Well I took carb apart again and cleaned it. It runs good but still cant put the bystarter in. It wont even start with it in. Will have a new bystarter soon. As soon as I have it I will put it on and see how it runs. Will keep you all informed. Also have another question is it a bad thing to run it with out the bystarter till I get the new one. Like I said I will only be running it for 2 tenths a mile to work and home.

[scooby26t]

Ok all got the new bystarter and put it in. made sure it worked before I installed it. Also took the time to clean the carb one more time when I had the cover off to install the bystarter. Guess what. It still stalls out when you put it under throttle. So I pluged the hole and it runs fine again. I guess I will just let the hole pluged and run it that way. If anyone has any idea of what I can do to try and fix this let me know.
Thanks
Tim

[CaptDan]

It still stalls out when you put it under throttle.

Tim

Two things come to mind:

1. The plug might be full of 'glern' from running too rich. Pull it out, check it. If wet and/or fouled - just replace it. Cheap fix.

If it still stalls out after a plug change then:

2. Hate to say your hi-speed jet is probably crudded - the sub-atomic sized holes in the emulsion tube in particular. That's the little brass 'flute' hidden inside the jet. Do a search for 'emulsion tube,' here; there's a good how-to on removing and cleaning it.

As long as you've got the carb apart, check that microscopic chamber between the bystarter port and float bowl. A .13 gauge gtar string carefully plucked through it will clear it out. In fact, that same piece of string is splendid for cleaning those micro-holes in the emulsion tube as well.

Good luck. Hope this solves it.

CaptDan>