strip the crank on the Variator side f

[swimmingfree]

strip the crank on the Variator side for the 3 time on my se50 motor by kicking over the motor over... no battery so no starter the compression is hi feel it in the kick lever my tester is f up ... im running a malossi bore and head ... looked in the manual ( chaper 8 page 0 ) im missing the washer that goes on the end before the nut.. cood that be what is f---ing up the crank????
well looking for another crank and some input why it getting strip ...
swimmingfree

[curtis966]

Not a lot of spline to start with on the af05e that's for sure. I had mine shimmed for the longest time until I spun my drive face wile ripping around town took my shim out and she ran for another year before selling it. Never had the problem happen because of kick starting I also ran with no battery but it started with 1-2 kicks every time too. How do you put together your cvt? Like in what order and do you use an impact gun?

[curtis966]

Also without the washer you could be hitting the splines when torquing the bolt.

[swimmingfree]

i think im doing it wright but i must not be.. i pull the drive belt so in snug in the back pull and lose on the front....
then i put the Variator together with the bushing slid it in place then the belt then get the gear drive line up with the spline then the nut....
hope its wright...
swimmingfree

[swimmingfree]

some one must of seen this or something like this please help...
swimmingfree

[speedy25]

Also without the washer you could be hitting the splines when torquing the bolt.

Thats why the washer is there. Dont try to out-think the Japanese.

I'm not really sure what you are "stripping" though.

-SP

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Stripped the nut threads, or stripped the splines for the outer sheave? Pics would help.

As Curtis remarked, the crank splines on the 05 are short in length. Just Barely adequate to engage the sheave splines, and that's with stock pulley boss. That's why it is challenging to mount a ZX drive and wider belt - the splines are almost all taken up by the longer boss. Despite this, someone on here once posted doing it.

So if those precious few mm of splines are Just strong enough to endure the twisting forces of a 3.5HP stock engine, it is possible that you're doing nothing wrong except that the extra power of your big-bore kit is enough to shear them? Malossi once made a crank for the 05; perhaps Graph or Eft can assist in finding a tougher Core for your engine.

[mousewheels]

+1 on short splines
--
The splines of the drive face do not fully engage the crank on my AF05. Shimming can rapidly leave very little of the spline taking up the load.

AF05_crank_and_driven_face_01.jpg (254.99 KiB) Viewed 8828 times

AF05_crank_and_driven_face_02.jpg (120.13 KiB) Viewed 8828 times

[mousewheels]

Certainly members (including me) have used drive face holding tools without issue. I have no failures to cite, but worth thinking about.

Factor 1 -- Crank holding tool
-- Honda's 'best practice' (+1)
Honda's shop manual shows holding the crankshaft at the fan side while tightening the drive face nut. That puts zero holding torque on the crank/drive face splines.

-- Alternate holding tool (-1)
Many use tools which hold the drive face itself for torqueing down the drive face nut. That places tightening torque across the crank shaft/ drive face splines.

Factor 2 -- Reduced contact area of splines (-1)
Tuners, in search of optimum performance may shim the drive face wider. That reduces spline contact area

Factor 3 -- Extra or uncontrolled torque (-1)
Some, knowing there is less spline contact, deliberately torque higher - to be sure it won't slip.

Factor 4 -- Tightening torque is much higher than running torque
AF05 (SE50) shows 29 ft/lbs torque for the drive face nut. An stockish 4.5hp engine at 8000 RPM is around 3ft/lb torque.
That shows the magnitude of loading the splines may see during tightening vs running.

-- Summary
Honda's installation method keeps tightening torque off the crankshaft splines and drive face.
Drive face style put stress in excess of running torque on the crank/drive face splines
Drive face holding tools are in successful use by members. However, if factors 2 & 3 are present consider risk/rewards

[swimmingfree]

will take it apart latter today and post photo ... im about to bring the welder out and fix it.... lol lol
swimmingfree

[paulpauly7]

dont weld it

[swimmingfree]

i was thinking of welding the nut to the gear drive ...so i can tack it off for what ever reason ...
swimmingfree
ps
life was bizzy yesterday did not make it out...

[swimmingfree]

ok i rip it down and this is what i fond
\



is that grove normal for a ruckus variator???

[ped]

Hi swim. it looks like it's done. Unless you can make a key way for it?
put new roller in and spot weld it back together for now.
make sure not to spot weld where the kick starter cogs are.
change the belt by removing the rear clutch. good luck.

[paulpauly7]

that groove is because the ramp is to big for the crank shaft .As your doing it up the ramp plate is riding up on the inner edge of your crank .You need another crank and a malossi variator for the small shaft crank .