Saratoga Spree~!

[Bear45-70]

My big box of parts arrived last week but with the holiday I have not had much time to work on putting them on. While looking things over one thing I have not figured out is how to mount the new ignition switch. I just don't see how it can attach, could anyone share a description and/or picture that would be a great help. I searched the site but have come up empty handed.

Jerome

Why have you not downloaded the Service Manual and started reading it?

[KillinSpree]

Look at your leg shield! Youll see the hole in it so you can put your key into the ignition switch. Take off the leg shield and it fits flush against the frame and your leg shield. One bolt an an acorn nut holds it on. Then plug it into your harness an your good to go

[C Jerome]

I have the manual, I even printed it out double sided and put it in a binder! The picture of this was not clear and I could not get it. When I bout the spree there was no ignition.

I see how it fits into the leg shield, And figured it would bolt to those two holes on the frame but I have not figured it out. I will have to check the manual and pick up a new bolt, can you elaborate on how the acorn nut fit in.
(on second thought, are you saying only one bolt hold the ignition to the frame?)

[Bear45-70]

There is a plate that the switch mounts on that then is bolted to the stem.

Look here at item# 19. part # 50123-GK8-000 PLATE, HANDLE LOCK

http://www.hondabike.com/fiche_section_ ... &fveh=3554

[C Jerome]

Okay, that would make sense. I looked yesterday and I must be missing that plate. I just spent 40 minutes browsing the site for a picture where I could see the ignition installed on the plate, but have not found one. The closest I found was this shot http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/downlo ... hp?id=1654 of the stem. I think this is what mine looks like now, can you describe how the plate mounts up to it. Also what does part #9 from that diagram do? If needed, I will order the stuff Monday morning and should have it mid week.

Second question, I have BBQd my muffler twice now, last night was for about 40 minutes at high (600f). I have to go out and shake it but last time I could hear crap shaking around in there still. Is this 'normal' or should it be turned into dust? Do I just run water through it and all that crap will flow out with lots of flow?

Jerome

[wikked_spree57]

Best thing to do is to get yourself a nice hot bonfire going. Toss the pipe in and leave it there about a half hour. Once it cools, rinse it out, that should free all the crap from inside. That could also be chunks of rusted metal in there, if you wind up needing a new muffler I have one I don't believe I need. It's in good shape.

[C Jerome]

I have roasted it now on the grill twice, once 30 minutes the other time at least an hour, I feel like it should be cooked. Now that you mention it, I think it must be rust, it sounds more like that type of sound when I shake it. Also, the scooter is low miles (if the odometer is accurate) so I don't think it would have that much carbon clogged in there. I will try to rinse and see if that washes any of it out

Any input on my other question above?

[C Jerome]

Used a steel brush on the drill to clean up the surface rust then washed and lushed the muffler out in the laundry room sink and dried it on the grill. I have several coats of the high heat rustoleum BBQ mat black on there now. I painted the trim piece with a few coats of that and now I am painting over in red for a nice accent.

Question of the day...
When I twist the throttle it does not spring back, I have to look at the diagrams but I figure there is a spring in the grip that is off track. To this end I need to disassemble the piece that houses it. Problem, there are two screws that hold it together and I can't get either screw lose, any tips?

Jerome

[KillinSpree]

If it pulls but dont pull back its most likely a sticky throttle cable or the return spring at the end of the throttle cable that screws in the top of your carb. As for the bolts take your phillips screw driver to the bolts on your throttle housing and tap the end with a hammer but not to hard

[C Jerome]

Exactly, it will twist for more throttle but does not return back to idle position. I think the spring in the carb is good as I actually just replaced it with a new one as part of my rebuild. I will try to lube up the cable, I take it there is no spring in the twist grip? On my moped there is the spring in the carb and then also one in the grip.
Will try the light hammer on the screws.

Jerome

[Bear45-70]

There is no spring in the throttle twist grip. Your problem indicates a throttle cable going bad. Once they start sticking, I just replace them, because they never seem to get better and the throttle sticking can kill you.

[C Jerome]

TIme for updates!
The case of the stuck screws has been solved. Yesterday after a few more good taps with the hammer they each gave way. I think sitting with the WD-40 for a few days helped. I also found a possible culprit, there was dried dirt inside the assembly(as I have also found all on the undercarriage), the previous owners must have ridden this in mud. Rest assured she will be treated better now.

Front brake cable came in, and I installed, lever will go back on when I finish with the throttle.
Muffler painting is finished, I painted the trip piece red to complement the scooter, looks nice but the red is not exact, have to look for better match.
I almost went and did a retro of the headlight with a new bulb and socket because it was not lighting with the key on, luckily before I fired up the dremmel I remembered the HL is AC powered only when the engine is running...

Issues:
Back to the throttle, I have a new used throttle cable coming, but went to remove the one on there now to get read for it and I noticed that when I had the throttle side removed from the carb and the top side removed from the grip the spring pulls the cable tight. Could it still be a sticky cable?
Also there is not a good picture of the proper install of the top end of the cable in the manual. Does the part that attaches to the cable go 'on the top side'?

Turnsignals, I wanted to get these working yesterday but it did not work out. End plan is to have LED signals on the font, but I thought getting the system working with OEM signals would be a good plan first. The only change is I ordered and have installed an all electronic low load relay, I only have three OEM signals because one of the rear has a broken socket. I hooked up the three I have and they will light on a side but not flash. If I unplug one and then touch the wire back to the connector the turn signal clicker will click once, un touch and touch again and I get another click. No flashing action. Ideas?

I appreciate everyones help!
Jerome

[C Jerome]

Did some more work on the scooter the last few days.
Cleaned primed and painted the new used wheels
Finished cleaning and waxing the front plastics
Installed new rear signals and low load flasher relay
Filled oil tank with bel-ray si-7 full synthetic, haves used this in the injector system on my moped since day one with great results

I am having a problem with the turn signal just lighting but not flashing, I started a new thread http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewto ... 80#p149780 in the technical section to deal with it.
Right now I am going to table this investigation into the flashing until I can start the scooter and see if higher revs takes care of the issue, otherwise I feel like I could just be wasting time.

I plan to Wax the last part on Sunday, wax the wheels, mount the tires and start polishing the aluminum.

I may paint the front forks to match the silver I painted the wheels, thoughts?
Do I need to remove all the plastic switches on the handlebar modules before using the 3m pad on the dremmel to polish?

Photo updates coming Sunday!

Jerome
Jerome

[C Jerome]

The workshop

Muffler painted flat black with grill paint, the trim I need to strip and repaint a red that matches the red plastic better

Check out the new rear turnsignals

Started the polish job

Work table

Pretty plastics, I used this turtle wax liquid compound from Walmart that cost less than 2 bucks, worked great, then I waxed over it.

Wheels, after the paint and mounting. I have to go fill the air today. These tires mounted much easier than I thought.

This set was a great investment, I would recommend to anyone who is working on the scooters, the only thing I would add is a longer extension bar that can be handy sometimes.

[C Jerome]

Busy morning. I aired up the tires but have to mess with them more as they are not completely centered on the rim. I also put the air box, muffler, and new wheels on the scooter, adjusted the brake cables and cleaned up the black plastic, and connected the fuel and vacuum lines. Things are really coming together!

I need help with a few questions.
After installing the new front wheel and tightening the bolt the wheel does not spin freely, if I loosen the bolt a lot the wheel spins better. What is likely wrong(it's not the brake I checked) (the rear is spinning nicely)

When you step on the kick starter should it spring back to the starting position by itself? Mine does not.

What do I need to do before I try to start it the first time? I figure it is a good idea to check if i have a spark, To check for spark do I just take the plug out and hit the start button and watch for a spark? What else should I check?

Once I check the above, what is the best procedure for the first start?

Hope to turn it over by the weekend!

Jerome